Acqua Restaurant and Wine Bar

  • Price: $$$
    American, American casual, American contemporary

A small and cozy new dinner-only restaurant in (and with a view of) White Bear Lake.

Daron Close and chef Chris Whalen, formerly of Campiello and other D'Amico properties, have struck out on their own to open a small suburban restaurant. Acqua features a non-trendy menu of specials and entrees that unlocks the flavors lurking deep inside ingredients, whether it's a succulent, slow-braised pork shank or oven-roasted cauliflower. While I quibbled with a perfunctory thin-crust pizza and a few over-salted dishes, this place does a great job balancing the unexpected with the standard.

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4453 Lake Av. S. White Bear Lake, MN 55110
Tue.-Sun. 5-10 p.m.