A small and cozy new dinner-only restaurant in (and with a view of) White Bear Lake.
Daron Close and chef Chris Whalen, formerly of Campiello and other D'Amico properties, have struck out on their own to open a small suburban restaurant. Acqua features a non-trendy menu of specials and entrees that unlocks the flavors lurking deep inside ingredients, whether it's a succulent, slow-braised pork shank or oven-roasted cauliflower. While I quibbled with a perfunctory thin-crust pizza and a few over-salted dishes, this place does a great job balancing the unexpected with the standard.
4453 Lake Av. S.
White Bear Lake, MN
Tue.-Sun. 5-10 p.m.