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Afton House Inn

American, American casual

A rare bastion of tableside preparation, with a charming country house warmth and ambience that suggests chicken pot pie rather than steak Diane. But its ambitious menu offers not only flaming steak Diane but authentic Caesar salad and those virtually extinct flaming desserts, bananas Foster and cherries jubilee, with all the appropriate hoopla and pyrotechnics. The performances are first-rate, but the result is often not. So it goes. Times change and culinary fashions change. It's easy to get sentimental about those dishes, but the reality is that they often weren't really that good, even in their heyday. What was different? We were.

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